Port Moresby (Pot Mosbi in Tok Pisin) is the capital of Papua New Guinea.
Understand
Port Moresby is the capital and largest city of Papua New Guinea (PNG). The city is on the shores of the Gulf of Papua. Its population is around 300,000 and growing quickly. The indigenous people of the area are the Motu-Koitabu. Moresby, as it is commonly known, got its name from Captain John Moresby who arrived in 1873 as the first European visitor.
The city is quite spread out. The original colonial settlement was by the sea and this is still the port area, as well as the main business and banking district. On the hills above are upmarket residences. The area is served by the Crowne Plaza hotel. Closer to the airport, separated from the original town by hills, is Waigani, a 1970s development built to house the Government offices of the newly Independent (September 16, 1975) country of Papua New Guinea. Nearby are the housing areas of Boroko and Gordons, which also contain most of the large stores.
Get in
Port Moresby is the main point of entry into Papua New Guinea for air-traffic and most of the boat-traffic. The national airline is Air Niugini. This flies to and from Australian cities in codeshare with Qantas, but also to Fiji, Solomon Islands, Singapore, Japan, Hong Kong, Malaysia, and the Philippines. Virgin Blue flies to Brisbane on behalf of the other local airline, Airlines PNG.
Airfares from Australia are quite cheap, especially if you book online and seek one of the special fares. From other countries fares are fairly expensive and it may be cheaper to fly to Cairns and pick up a flight to Port Moresby from there.
Get around
For a tourist, the attractions in Moresby can be spread out. There is little 'attraction' in the CBD and walking around will not get you very far. It is nice to walk along Ela Beach and around market areas but otherwise you will be reliant on motorised transport. There is the odd push-bike around the place - though finding one for hire may be a challenge.
By PMV
The locals rely on mini-buses (known as Public Motor Vehicles) that service all parts of the city. Whilst cheap, some drivers do not mind over-loading their vans. All PMVs have their route number and destination printed on - it is easy to ask locals where the buses go, they'll be happy to help and warn you.
By car
Car rental agencies are available close to Jacksons International airport but driving in Port Moresby might not be what most people are used to. In some areas of POM the locals throw stones at the car, usually just for amusement but in some cases they manage to crack your windshield. There are cases of people standing in the middle of a stretch of road they have mended and demanding compensation from people driving by, and as soon as you get outside of the city the roads deteriorate to muddy trails that only a 4x4 with an experienced driver should attempt. If you want to see the sights near Moresby such as Crystal Rapids near Sogeri or the start of the Kokoda, a 4x4 is highly recommended.
By taxi
There are numerous taxis (some 'teksis' too) around Moresby and calling one from your hotel will bring one promptly. You can try your luck hailing one but if you want to feel safe arrange a friend or your hotel to call one.
See
- The Botanical Gardens A must for the visitor. Has some amazing examples of PNG wildlife such as birds of paradise, a couple of casowaris, and several other native birds. If you are lucky you might catch a wedding while you are there as some locals like to conduct the ceremony in the gardens. On the same road is the National Orchid Garden which is also well worth a look - it is planned to encompass a zoological garden in the future.
- Port Moresby Golf Club A nice golf course located right across from the government buildings. The prices are quite acceptable for visitors. Be careful, crocodiles inhabit the water holes of the golf course. The main building has a nice restaurant where one can have lunch and have a few SP beers (South Pacific beers) after a round of golf.
- The Ela Beach Craft Market Run by the Ela Murray International School and held on the last Saturday of each month, this market brings together local artifacts from all over Papua New Guinea. An easy way to get some beautiful carvings, handwoven baskets, or any of a number of other things to bring home as souvenirs.
- Touaguba Hill Perhaps not so much to see, but this is where the ambassadorial residences are located and is also where many of the well-to-do expats and locals live. There is a nice view from the top of the hill overlooking the centre of the city and the ocean.
- Moitaka Wildlife Sanctuary, Sir Hubert Murray Highway. Numerous crocodiles, some very large, as well as birds and other animals. edit
- Hiri Moale Festival. This takes place on the weekend of PNG's Independence Day in mid-September. The centrepiece is a race of up to 100 traditional Lakatoi canoes, recalling the sea voyages undertaken by the Motuan people from the Port Moresby area who exchanged sago and clay pots with the people of neighbouring Gulf Province. The departure of the canoes from Port Moresby's Ela Beach is really spectacular. The Festival is the city's main cultural show with traditional performances, as well as the canoes.
Itineraries
Do
Scuba Diving A number of reefs and wrecks are within close proximity to Port Moresby and diving can be arranged through day vessels or on nearby Loloata Island (which has its own dive shop). There are a variety of sites and depths for all experience levels.
Eat
Groceries
There are basically four stores to buy groceries if you are a foreigner in Port Moresby: Andersons Foodland, now called SVS Harbour City, Stop and Shop in Hohola, and Boroko Foodworld in Boroko and Gordons. Andersons is located right next to the Royal Papua Yacht club and usually suffices. Otherwise there is Foodworld which is larger and located over the hill in Boroko. An even larger and newer Boroko Foodworld is further east in Gordons. Just recently Port Moresby has opened its first shopping mall called Vision City in Waigani. There is a large hypermarket called RH selling anything from household furniture to baked beans. Their supply is abundant and the quality is good and prices are competitive. What one should bear in mind though is that everything imported might not always be there. Often if you see something you like you have to buy a lot of it because there is no telling when the next shipment is coming. This doesn't apply to basic foodstuffs but rather to things that might not be in high demand such as herring. RH has basically closed this gap.
Restaurants
- Asia Aromas, ☎ 321 4780. Chinese Restaurant serving great food located inside the Steamships Plaza on Champion Parade in the downtown area. Is popular with the local expatriate community. edit
- Daikoku Located inside the Andersons Foodland area, it offers great Japanese cuisine cooked directly at your table (teppanyaki). Don't forget to try the "Puk Puk" which is Tok Pisin for crocodile.
- Royal Papua Yacht Club Serves good Australian cuisine with some Papua New Guinean touches. Has à la carte menu and a buffet that varies according to the day of the week. An invitation from a member might be required to enter.
- Crowne Plaza Has a wonderful mediterranean restaurant which is probably the most expensive on the island. But if you feel like splurging this is definitely the place to go, it'll still be a good bargain.
- Port Moresby Golf Club Has a nice little lunch restaurant which serves à la carte or a buffet during lunch hours.
- Jepello's Great italian food, and keyboardist who plays pop tunes. Off Waigani Drive, across the street from Big Rooster.
- Seoul House Decent korean food. Next to 5-Mile service station.
- Fu Gui Assortment of asian style cuisine. Try the Nasi Lemak chicken. In Gordon's, down the road form RH and Brian Bell.
- Lamana Hotel, [1]. A nice place for a quick lunch buffet and an happening casino at night.Food is good and the only place where you get Indian food.Place to visit certainly with all its friendly staff. 25k. edit
Drink
The drink of choice in Port Moresby as in the rest of Papua New Guinea is South Pacific lager: "SP beer". However, once that cultural experience is done, you will probably prefer to move on to the more refined 'SP Export' lager, or 'Niugini Ice' beer. To buy alcohol you have to go to one of the characteristic yellow and green coloured shops that are usually integrated into the supermarkets. You don't want to go to the ones that aren't. They have a relatively limited selection of wines, mostly Australian or New Zealand brands. The prices are higher than you would expect because of the taxation of alcohol. The locals tend to get quite rowdy when they drink (as everywhere else) so it's best to avoid anyone that seems to be under the influence. Typically most expats drink at hotel bars or sports club bars, which have a more relaxed atmosphere.
Sleep
One should be aware that hotels are generally quite expensive in Papua New Guinea.
- Airways Hotel, Jacksons Parade (Located close to the airport), ☎ (675) 324 5200 (reservations@airways.com.pg, fax: (675) 324 5300), [2]. Has both hotel rooms and apartments for long-stay guests. Has a nice pool with a view down the hill to the airport, and a great breakfast buffet. PNG's only delicatessen and an Indonesian spa are also located on the premises. edit
- The Crowne Plaza, (In the centre of the business district of Port Moresby and close to Tugubaga Hill.), ☎ (675) 309 3000 (fax: (675) 309 3333), [3]. checkin: 1PM; checkout: 11AM. Amenities include a nice pool, an international class restaurant, a fitness centre, and a business lounge edit
- Holiday Inn, (Waigani Road & Wards Road), ☎ (675) 303 2000 (reservations@holidayinnportmoresby.com.pg, fax: (675) 325 0837), [4]. Located a bit off from the centre this hotel has very nice rooms, some sports facilities, and a great pizza restaurant (with live music at times). edit
- Loloata Island Resort, ☎ (675) 325 8590 (loloata@loloata.com, fax: (675) 325 8933), [5]. Doubles: $225. edit
- Grand Papua Hotel, Mary Street, Port Moresby 121 National Capital District (In the centre of Port Moresby), ☎ (675) 304 0000 (fax: (675) 304 1000),[6]. A new (opened in December 2011) hotel that describes itself as the first "deluxe hotel" to open in Port Moresby. Rooms are expensive but modern and clean. Contains a Spa & Beauty Salon as well as a gymnasium and sauna. edit
Stay safe
Port Moresby is well-known for its crime. Car jackings, muggings and worse are common. There is a great deal of concern about the level of crime and civil disorder and about the ability and willingness of the police to cope. Police officers have been found to be complicit in major crime. Police brutality against minor offenders, complainants and witnesses has been the subject of criticism from the international group Human Rights Watch.
It is possible to minimise the chances of becoming a victim of crime by being aware of your surroundings, avoiding places where large groups are gathered and avoiding places where offences are prevalent. The Waigani area, particularly the area around the traffic lights and the Port Moresby Golf Club, has experienced numbers of car jackings.
It is always wise to seek the advice of a person familiar with Port Moresby before venturing into unknown areas.
Saltwater crocodiles (Crocodylus porosus) are still common throughout all of Papua New Guinea. However, you are extremely unlikely to run into one.
Cope
Embassies & Consulates
- Greece, P.O. Box 6207, Boroko-Ν.C.D., ☎ +675 325 3077 (fax: +11 679 253 441). edit
Get out
With relatively few attractions, Moresby is usually just a stopping off point for tourists heading to other parts of PNG. The whole country could be listed under Get Out. For major locations see Papua New Guinea. Possible day trips from Port Moresby include:
- Sogeri Plateau. Fifty km from Port Moresby and, at 800m, an escape from the heat. Sogeri marks the end of the Kokoda Trail, which was the route through the jungle taken by Japanese soldiers in 1942 in an attempt to capture Port Moresby.
- Yule Island. A small island just off the coast of Central Province, a two-hour drive west of Port Moresby. This was one of the first areas of PNG to have European contact. Catholic missionaries settled in 1885. They were joined by Filipino catechists and, as a result, the people of the area often have distinct Filipino features. It is a popular spot for a relaxing getaway and for good seafood.
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